Many times as I have wandered around the Ranch and seen
many interesting things that I would like to know about. I have
sometimes mused thinking if this place could talk I would be very
interested in listening to it's many fascinating stories.
I have camped many times under a line of tall Poplar
trees that were planted very precisely in line probably over one
hundred years ago. Who planted them and where did he get them? Across
the creek there is the remains of two old Lime Kilns that were
probably used by the same man that planted the trees. Then I let my
imagination take over to tell me the story.
A young married man probably with two or three wives
came to settle in Pacheco and searched out an Ideal place to build his
home. He found an Ideal spot by a clear cold stream of water that came
from some springs about a mile up the creek. The spot was at the foot
of the Continental divide where it would be protected from the fierce
winds and yet receive plenty of rain as the clouds drifted over the
high mountains turning loose the life giving rain.
Here he put up his camp and went up the canyon in
search of lime rock that he could use to help make his living by
burning lime for the mortar that would surely be needed to set the
bricks in the many brick homes that would be built in Pacheco and near
by Garcia. The lime would be needed to make the beautiful white
plaster for the Church house and the homes.
He found an outcropping of blue white lime rock the
best kind for burning. He carried a few samples down to his camp and
looked around for a good place to dig his lime Kilns. He found an
Ideal place just across the Creek from where he intended to build his
home. He dug two pits about six feet in diameter and about eight feet
deep and faced each pit with rock and mud making the pit a little
narrower at the top to facilitate covering the pit when the time
came.
He took his pack horse and with some heavy bags went
after several loads of lime rock while his ovens were drying. He also
went after some dry white oak wood, cut it and piled it up near his
ovens. Then he found a big dry Juniper tree and cut plenty of red
Juniper and stacked it beside the Oak. He would need it to make the
oak burn brightly and produce the heat he needed to heat his lime rock
and change it into un-slacked lime.
He built a fire in the bottom of each oven and filled
each kiln with loosely placed oak and juniper wood, interspersed
leaving a a small draft hole in the center from top to bottom. Soon it
was burning brightly with plenty of flames and heat roaring out of the
tops of the ovens. As the wood burned down into hot oak coals he added
more wood keeping it very hot for most of the day. Finally when his
ovens were glowing red with heat he added the lime rock dropping each
rock carefully so that it could receive the heat from the oven. He
quickly covered the top of the kilns with lumber that he had prepared
and hurriedly covered the lumber with plenty of dirt sealing each oven
so that the heat could not escape and the air could not get in. He
probably had a couple of teen age boys to help him in his work. They
would also learn the trade of making lime.
After two or three days they would open their ovens and
find the rocks inside too hot to handle so they would let them cool
down until they could carefully take them out. The rocks would seem
solid enough but they knew that they had been changed into un-slacked
lime.
They took a big rock to test it to see if it had been
changed into lime. They placed it on a lumber platform and brought a
little cup of water from the creek. They dropped a little water on the
seeming solid rock and immediately it began to fizz and crumble into
white powder seeming to boil and get very hot. Soon that solid rock
turned into a pile of white lime and was left to cool.
This white lime would be sold to be used for mortar and
for plaster. The mortar and the plaster would be made by mixing the
white lime with sand and then with enough water to make it into a
thick paste or mortar mix. Then it would be heaped up in pile to cure
for a few hours. Then it would be mixed again to use for mortar for
bricks or for plaster inside the house. When this mixture dried it
would be hard like cement and could be smoothed into smooth white
plaster on the ceiling and walls of the houses.
I can imagine our family building their home on the
west side of the Creek up on a flat bench above the flood line of the
Creek. The Poplar Trees would have to be brought from Utah or Arizona
and at the same time he would bring in the Blackberry plants that he
planted in his garden. They planted their poplar trees in a line in
front of their new house and their vegetable garden and black berry
bushes across the creek to the east where they could bring the water
from up the creek in a little ditch to water their Vegetables and all
of their garden stuff for food for the family. I am sure they had a
few fruit trees to supply their families with the fruit they
needed,
Surely the lime for building the combination Church
House and School House would be donated by our family as faithful
members of the Church. Some of the lime would be traded for lumber and
other materials needed for their home. They could even trade some lime
for a cow or two and some pigs and chickens. That would certainly help
to provide eggs and milk for their food. Some of the pigs would be
killed in the fall to provide bacon, ham and the Lard for cooking and
for making soap. The milk would be set for the cream to raise and make
butter and whipped cream for pies and desert. When they had enough
milk they would make cheese and cottage cheese for their food.
I can imagine the man and his wife sitting on the front
porch in the evening to watch the moon come up like a big yellow
cheese slowly rising over the pine covered ridges in the east. They
would feel satisfaction as they looked over their garden growing in
the east. They might look through the Poplar trees at the clear
flowing stream and hear the running water as it ran by, providing
water for their use in the house and for all of their needs.
On Sunday they would rise early and with everyone
bathed and wearing their best clothes they would hitch up the wagon
and go over to Pacheco to spend the day in church. This would be a
good time of worship and for visiting with their friends and
neighbors. They would pack a lunch just in case they would not get
invited to some friends home for dinner. They would drive back in the
wagon in the cool of the evening to take care of the Pigs and the
chickens and milk the cows and feed the calves.
All that remains of this home is the line of Poplar
trees now grown tall and part of the lime Kilns that are left since
the creek has washed away the bank which has caved in to the flood
waters exposing what is left of the Lime Kilns of long ago. Their are
still a few blue white lime rocks that would not fit in the last batch
to be burned. A few of the old Blackberry bushes remain to mark the
spot where they were planted over a hundred years ago. As I view these
relics of the past I wonder and ask myself, "What were their names and
where are their posterity"? I wish they had left a written history to
let them live for us in their histories.
As we were gathering truck loads of rocks for building
the dam at the ranch we found it easy to pick up and use the rocks
that had been used in the wall of the ancient buildings that have
crumbled into big mounds of rock and dirt. I began to wonder about the
lives of those ancient people. On the Ranch there are four big ruins
denoting big families or small settlements scattered around the
area.
When we needed good Adobe dirt to make the Adobes for
the ranch house we hauled it from one of the mounds near the road.
When the men were loading the truck with the dirt they uncovered a
Skeleton of a man. They came to ask me what to do with it and I told
them to bury it in the mound away from where they were taking the
dirt.
I wondered why this man was found a few feet under the
dirt of the mound. If he had been buried in a room of his house he
would have been found much deeper. It is a mystery to me why his
skeleton was found so near the surface of the mound.
I realized that these walls had been made by mixing mud
and pine needles or straw and putting it into a form then adding rock
into the mud in the form and left to dry until the forms could be
removed. The mud and rock was left to dry until it was hard enough to
support the next layer. This process was used almost universally in
that area. After the big adobe dried another form full of mud and rock
was placed on top gradually raising the wall over a period of time. I
really don't know what the roof was made of since there are no remains
of any poles or anything to indicate how the roof was made. .
Many illegal pot hunters have dug in these mounds,
apparently with success because of the amount of digging. I went down
into one hole where they had dug down and uncovered an inside wall of
a room. I marveled at the smooth clay plaster and the paint that was
still visible on a piece of the plaster that was still intact. The
paint was a dull red color which could have been part of a painting or
the color of the walls of the room. The man that put on that plaster
and paint was a skilled craftsman and the house must have been
beautifully done inside and out. For it was made with patience and
skill. That plaster was very smooth and even and whoever did the work
knew well what he was doing.
There are many of these big mounds of ruined houses all
over the Corrales and Pacheco area. I would venture to say that more
people lived in this area than lived in the famous Paquime ruins in
Casas Grandes. They were skilled farmers because of the great amount
of terraces all through the mountains.
It must have been a great drought that made them
abandon their beautiful homes and fields and gardens. It seems that
the whole northwestern part of the country was abandoned at the same
time. I have not been able to find any evidence of a great war. These
were a peaceful people. In all of my wanderings in the mountains I
have not been able to find any arrow heads or spear heads etc. Metates
and Molcajetes abound and can be found in almost any ruin. They must
have been a happy and industrious people living off their crops and
trading for their other needs. I wonder how they cooked their
Tortillas that they must have made from the evidence of the Metates
everywhere? Did they make a clay Comal by adding thin layers of Clay
to a dried Clay sheet? I have seen evidence of such a device to place
over the fire providing a smooth flat surface for cooking. Did they
use their big clay Ollas to cook their corn adding ashes to the water
to remove the hulls? Did they raise beans to eat as they did in the
tribes to the south? I am sure they used all kinds of Herbs for
cooking, teas and for medicinal purposes because the Tarahumaras still
have knowledge of many herbs and their uses.
Without a written history all we can know about these
people is what we can guess at from the ruins of their houses, their
pottery and their implements of stone.
I hope that I can leave a little more to my posterity
than the ruins of an empty house that was abandoned leaving only
things that could not be carried away easily.
If those mounds could talk surely they could tell us of
their lives, how they lived and loved. It could tell of their dances
and ceremonies at planting time and harvest time. They could tell us
of their customs and dress and their musical language. Their history
would be of each person and his accomplishments his journeys his
influence among his people. How he treated his wife and children. The
details of their lives would be much more interesting than just the
facts that we know. We know that they began to build their houses
around 900 A.D. and they left mysteriously around 1200 or 1300 A.D.
They probably traded with the people of the coast and to the North and
to the South.
There are other more recent ruins on the ranch and I am
sure that if a stranger came to view them he could not tell what was
there only a few year ago. He would see a cement floor and suppose
that it had been a home. He could see a large area surrounded by a
rock foundation and wonder what the large building was used for. I
will take the place of the ranch and tell the story of those ruins as
I saw them when I visited that place back in the days when I was in
high school.
We came to Pacheco with a Band and Chorus Concert from
the JSA to present to the people. My Cousin Ben Taylor was the band
and chorus teacher and he delighted in taking our Concerts to the
Mountain Colonies. We were met by many of the townspeople of Pacheco
and were taken to their homes to rest and get ready for the concert.
Knolton Martineau was in our group and he asked me to go with him to
his home. We went over to the Martineau ranch where his family lived
and operated a big Sawmill.
As we approached we could hear the whine of the saw and
the noise of the big motor that ran the mill. I was not prepared for
the busy scene that met my eyes. We walked along the well traveled
road into the Sawmill area. There were two big trucks being loaded
with lumber from the high stacks of dry lumber. In a big shed against
the hill the men were at work sawing lumber. One man the sawyer was
riding the carriage that ran swiftly back and forth on rails in front
of the big saw. Each trip the saw would whine and cut off a wide board
from the big log. On the return trip the man would work a lever and
the log would move a couple of inches closer to the saw to be ready to
cut off another 2x10 or 2x12 or whatever they were sawing at the time.
As each board fell from the saw it was carried away and stacked in a
three cornered stack in such a way that the air could circulate and
dry the lumber. Men were busy everywhere each doing his assigned
job.
On the right, near the creek there was a big building
that housed the tools and a place to repair the trucks and the
machinery. There were a number of lumber buildings and a couple of Log
Cabins that housed the regular workers at the mill. It was so big and
scattered around the area that I could not take it all in as we walked
to the house. Knowlton was greeted by his mother and his little
brothers and sisters. I was welcomed into their new Adobe home. I
don't remember how many rooms it had but I do remember the bright
kitchen where we sat down to a very good meal.
The life of the Marineau family was much like the life
of many Latter Day Saint Families of that time. Plenty of work for the
parents and all of the family . School for the children with plenty of
chores before and after school. Church on Sunday for the whole family
and the families that Brother Lee Martineau had worked with and
brought into the church. The boys of the family took after their
father who could install a Sawmill and keep it running taking care of
it and making all of the repairs. Many times making the parts that
were broken or worn out. It would take too long to go and buy them in
the faraway United States. The boys helped keep the big Lumber trucks
running. Later Reed and Ray who were twins put together a stripped
down car from parts from the junkyard. After they moved down to
Colonia Juarez I saw them buzzing around town in their odd
contraption.
Many years later after we had traded for the old
Martineau Ranch I would go over and ride around the site of the
sawmill. Back then there was still some ruins of a log cabin and a
good lumber building. The Adobe house had mostly fallen down because
someone had taken the roof off to use on his own house probably in
Pacheco. We could see a piece of the remaining wall of the big bodega
and repair shop. All of the rest was gone not much left to tell the
tale of a busy working Sawmill and home of a busy happy family. I rode
on across the creek to the south where Lee had planted a big orchard
of Red and Golden Delicious Apples. Down at the east end there are
still some trees that bear a deep red round apple that has a very good
flavor. We still have some apple juice that we made from a van load of
apples that we brought down each year for two or three years.
Up to the head of the apple orchard I found the remains
of a big dam and where Lee had piped the water in clay pipes from up
the creek to store the water in the dam to water the orchard. Now all
that remains is the old dam and a few pieces of the broken Clay pipes
scattered around. Those old Apple trees are gradually dying out.
Especially in these dry years that we have been having the last ten
years.
Up in the camping area there is an orchard of ancient
Crab Apple trees that were planted around the turn of the century at
least. They are over one hundred years old and still produce apples
whenever the frost does not come late in the season after the apple
trees bloom. I have camped under these old trees around the last of
April and have been showered with apple blossom petals the come down
like snow.
I read a history that someone wrote of three young men
that came back to Pacheco in the fall of 1912 after they had left in
the Exodus. One of the young men was a Martineau boy so they camped in
the Orchard by the Creek in the Joel Martineau ranch. They hunted Deer
and when they had killed their meat they loaded up what apples they
could carry and took them back to Juarez with them. If those trees
were bearing in the fall of 1912 they must have been planted at least
10 or 12 years earlier and probably before the turn of the century. I
was up in that orchard just the other day and those trees are alive
and their leaves were a bright green. I could not see well enough to
tell whether they had any apples on this year but Naoma tells me that
she saw that she saw they had many little apples on this year..
One year Hilven Cluff asked permission to use the field
on the ranch and planted a big field of Oats in the field at the
bottom of the ranch. He harvested a big crop of Oat Hay and stored it
in the old Martineau home in Pacheco.
Again if the Ranch could talk it would tell us of the
Deer that came carefully down in the night to feed on the delicious
Oats when the grain was sweet and in the milk. I can imagine one big
buck especially proudly coming down with a few Does to eat the sweet
grain. Then I can imagine that big buck returning and jumping the high
four wire fence and trotting off into the night.
One night as he was returning he had eaten a little
more than usual and when he proudly jumped the fence, instead of going
through like the Does probably because of his big horns, he jumped
over easily but his hind feet did not clear the top wire but went
through the gap over the second wire and under the top wire. He found
himself hung on the top wire by his flanks with the second wire
imprisoning his back legs. I can imagine his desperate efforts to free
himself but it was impossible for the wire was new and to strong to
break. The more he struggled the more the pain increased. How long he
hung there only the nearby trees could tell us. As he grew weaker and
probably bleating in agony the coyotes would begin to gather. I
imagine they began to tear at the helpless shoulders and throat while
the once proud buck weakly swung his big horns in defense.
In the day time the buzzards and crows would come to
pick at the meat and the bones until all that was left was the greasy
skeleton hanging on the top wire of the new fence. My heart was
grieved when I came upon the tragic scene of the painful death of that
proud Buck. His proud horns were shiny but all of the bones were dark
and greasy. There was not even any hair around or pieces of skin only
the bones of the skeleton were left hanging there still imprisoned
over the top wire. That complete Skeleton told the tragic tail of
missing that jump by just an inch or two.
Again if the ranch could talk it would tell of another
tragic event that happened in the dark of night. Rafael Garcia who
owns the San Juan Ranch above three rivers on the Arco River gave me a
beautiful Grey and white Pinto Mule. She was tall and long legged and
could really travel. We used her quite a few years in the mountains
and she was a favorite among those that got to ride her. She was on
the ranch with the other horses and mules waiting for the next trip
when the Tragedy happened. I would like to know just how it happened
but I simply cannot know except in my imagination.
Some young hunters were out hunting on a dark night
with a light to shine around and locate the Deer they wanted to kill
for meat. As they were going along the lane that goes by our ranch
they were shining their light into the night on both sides of the
lane. Suddenly they could see something Gray and White in the bushes
and two big eyes shining in the light. I can imagine their excitement
at seeing what they thought might be a big Buck Deer.
Aiming carefully they shot and hurried into the pasture
to collect their meat. When they came to find their big Deer they
found to their surprise and shock that it was a big Pinto Mule they
had shot by mistake. . I can imagine their guilt feelings as they
hurried away.
When we went up to get ready for another Pack trip into
the mountains we could not find our prized Pinto Mule. Finally after
searching all over the ranch we found the Skeleton of our Pinto Mule
with a bullet hole in her skull right between the eye sockets.
Yes, if the Ranch could talk it could tell us many
stories and things that we can only wonder about. Maybe someday that
little piece of beautiful mountains will be able to show us a video of
it's history letting us know of the people it has had live on it,
enjoying its beauty and feeling of home. It might even show us the
Girl's camps we have had there and the many Turkey hunts that we have
enjoyed camping in the shade of the old apple trees. It might even
show the grills full of Turkey breast frying for breakfast.
For now I can only record my version of what might have
happened on the Ranch in the days that have past and gone and were not
recorded.